This book is about challenges.
Discovering the bliss of surfing by conquering adversity, the world-wide search for “the Conductor”, and an investigation into the mysteries of the mind and the psychology of the wave rider. All the themes are skilfully woven into a biography of this thoughtful and often humorous adventurer.
Steven Kotler shares his experiences in a worts and all, highly personal, account of his travels, trials and tribulations within the surf. His research into the aspects of the human mind is thorough and intelligently sown together…it’s obvious that this man has read greatly around the subject. He has an obvious knack of taking complex ideas and conveying to the reader, in understandable language, the essence of the major theories.
Ever wondered what is really going on in your brain when you catch that perfect wave?
In short, this book is well worth a read…or two.
Find more information at Steve Kotler’s website